BEHIND THE SCENES: 3 DAYS IN ISTANBUL WITH EB

Istanbul, the economic, cultural and historic center of Turkey has long been on my travel list. It is the only city in the world that straddles both Asia and Europe and has been the capital of three empires, The Byzantine, Roman, and Ottoman. This bustling metropolis of 15 million people is sprawled across the European and Asian sides of the Bosphorus Strait. The Bosphorus cuts the city in two and connects the Sea of Marmara in the south to the Black Sea in the north. In some areas, time has stood still here which can be witnessed in the locals who continue to carry out ancient traditions while modern art museums and hipster neighborhoods are popping up at every turn. The restaurants here are the best in the country, with local dishes such as mezes, kebabs and freshly caught fish stealing the show. It’s no secret that the tourism boom died here after the 2016 bombings and the failed military coup d'état, but I am happy to report that after years of rebuilding, the city is safe and business is rocking. The Peninsula Hotel and The Mandarin Oriental are slated to open 2021 and 2023 and Turkish Airlines recently added more international and domestic lifts, making this an easy add on to other parts of the country and the Middle East. I hit the ground hard, zig zagging through alleyways and racing up ornate staircases to soak up all the colors, aromas, sights and sounds of this chaotic beauty. It was even more magical then I imagined. The details below xx Elisa

STAY

We stayed at 2 hotels, Four Seasons Sultanahmet and Four Seasons Bosphorus to minimize the back and forth and to test out both sides of the city. While the locations were perfect for what we wanted to cover and the service top notch, I found both properties a bit tired. I regretted not staying at The St. Regis after I popped in for a site inspection with the team. While it may not sit on the coveted Bosphorus, the hotel was gorgeous and felt more like a museum curated with beautiful treasures which included Assouline travel books and over 1000 pieces of art from The Demsa Group’s extensive private collection.

St. Regis Istanbul

St. Regis Istanbul

EAT & DRINK

Since our days were jammed packed, we did not have time for multi-course lunches. Our incredible guide Andan took us to local gems for authentic mezes and introduced us to Turkish street food specialties such as simit, gozleme and donor sold from the market stalls. We saved the trendy hotspots, Ruby, Sunset Grill and Mikla for cocktails and dinner.

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THE SPICE MARKET

Built in 1664, the market is one of the most colorful and fragrant bazaars, selling numberless spices, Turkish delights, caviar, dried nuts, teas, honey, cheeses and meats.

PRO TIP: Pandeli Restaurant serves delicious local dishes, located just above the Spice Market. It is the perfect spot to break for for lunch.

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THE GRAND BAZAAR

GB is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with 61 covered streets and over 4,000 shops. It attracts roughly 250,000 to 400,000 people a day, yes you read that correctly. The vendors carry a wide range of items that include antiques, jewelry, polished silver, lighting, ceramics and textiles.

PRO FAIL: I cannot believe I only packed a carry-on suitcase. The dollar goes quite far here and there were gorgeous ikat fabrics that I would have loved to purchased to make pillows for my home and beautiful kaftans, leather sandals and ceramic bowls.

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HAGIA SOPHIA MUSEUM

A Christian place of worship for 916 years before being coverted into a mosque that served Muslims for 481 years. Today it is a public museum.

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THE BLUE MOSQUE

A historical mosque known for the beautiful blue tiles surrounding the walls of interior design.

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TOPKAPI PALACE

In the 15th and 16th centuries, the Palace served as the main residence and administrative headquarters for the Ottoman’s Sultans. The sprawling estate is spreader 4 courtyards with 400,000 square meters of gardens, buildings, gates and fountains. Today it is one of the top visited museums. in Istanbul and houses the Imperial collections.

P.S. Living like a Royal looked pretty good to me. I will never make sense of #Megxit

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A PERFECT SATURDAY IN ISTANBUL

Brunch at Divan Brasserie in the trendy neighborhood of Bebek, stroll the markets of Kadikoy, check out the latest exhibits at Istanbul Modern, grab a light lunch across the street at Soho House, and end with a relaxing Turkish Hamamm or a private yacht cruise on the Bosphorus. We did both #ofcourse

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WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

GETTING HERE: Fly into Istanbul’s New Airport ( IST, and yes it is called the new airport) Center city is 30-45 minutes by car depending on traffic. The new airport, which opened last year will be completed in 2025, costing 12 billion dollars and will be the largest airport in the world. Every upscale brand you could possibly think of, LV, Gucci, Prada etc. had a storefront inside the terminals. The airport was overwhelming ( 818 million sq.ft) so having VIP fast track ( skip immigration lines) and a driver with a buggy to whisk us to baggage claim was an absolute game changer.

BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT: March -May, September-November

DURATION OF STAY: 3 nights was not enough. 4-5 would have been perfect.

IDEAL TRAVELER: Someone who is well travelled, one who appreciates history, culture and architecture.

P.S.Istanbul it is not a destination that one can just wing. The city is vast and spread out with a traffic situation that gives Los Angeles, Mexico City and Lima a run for their money. It is IMPERATIVE to have a well laid out plan, using private cars, trams and ferries wisely in order to minimize your movement and maximize your time. Smart casual shoes are a must as the majority of the sidewalks are uneven, cobbled or poorly paved. I highly recommend packing an extra suitcase. Between the shopping in the spice and grand bazaar and the boutiques in Bebek and Nişantaşı, you will need it.

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THE LAST AMERICANS IN THE MIDDLE EAST

This trip will always hold a special place in my heart as it was the last trip we took together before the Covid-19 crisis. The Corona Virus had already entered the US as we were departing and we almost cancelled our trip. JFK was practically empty at take off, a site I had never witnessed. The US closed our borders the day after we got home.

SPECIAL EDITION: THE NEWPORT RHODE ISLAND GUIDE

During the Gilded Age, America’s wealthiest families flocked to the City by the Sea and made the area their summertime playground. Today, Newport Rhode Island is still an ideal seaside escape filled with dramatic cliff walks, clam shacks, a serious sailing and polo scene and a dining game that will please the palates of food aficionados everywhere. While the city draws huge crowds in the summer, the winter months have their own quiet and cozy charm. No matter what time of year you choose to visit, this classic New England destination offers something for everyone. XX Elisa

STAY

Photo courtesy of The Vanderbilt

Photo courtesy of The Vanderbilt

Castle Hill Inn: The Inn provides the highest level of luxury in Newport and is less than a ten minute drive to the downtown area. With 2 five-star restaurants, private beach access, yacht rentals and complimentary bikes, this hotel is hands down an ideal weekend getaway for romantic seekers. However, with no pool and children under 12 not allowed in the main house, ( children are allowed in the cottages)  it may not lend itself to be the best choice for families depending on children’s ages.

Gurneys: Formerly The Hyatt Regency, Gurneys did a take over recently which included a renovation and the addition of Miami’s famous Scarpetta Restaurant. The downside is the hotel is located on Goat Island which is a ten minute walk into Downtown Newport, however it pretty much guarantees guests a great night sleep away from all the noise of downtown’s hustle and bustle. The hotel provides complimentary shuttle service into town every 15 minutes which allows travelers the opportunity to avoid the scarce parking situation. With an outdoor pool, which is a rare find in Newport and daily kids activities and fire pits for late night s'mores, it is the perfect choice for families.

The Vanderbilt: Originally built by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt, a scion of the wealthy Vanderbilt family, this 33 room/suite property is a vintage Newport mansion that has been meticulously restored to its former glory with elegant fireplaces and museum-quality artwork. Located just minutes from the charming waterfront by foot, the Vanderbilt is easily one of Newport’s best-kept secrets best suited for adults that want to be close to the action.

*MAPPS has preferred partnerships will all the hotels listed above. When booking with MAPPS, clients receive best available rate, complimentary upgrade, subject to availability, complimentary daily breakfast and food/beverage/spa credits.

EAT & DRINK

Bouchard: one of Newport’s premier dining establishments that has been providing artfully-inspired dishes for over 20 years. Perfect for a special occasion meal.

Fluke: On the more refined and pricey end of the dining spectrum. Aside from the many fresh seafood options there are plenty of vegetable dishes all made with local ingredients coupled with a stellar list of artisan wines.

Meg’s Milk Bar: hole in the wall with perfectly brewed coffee, omelets and sandwiches.

Perro Salado: Serving an innovative brunch and dinner menu, this off the beaten path restaurant offers locally sourced Mexican cuisine and is best suited for small groups due to limited seating. Highly recommend the house margarita, sticky ribs and fish tacos.

Scarpetta: Located at Gurneys, this italian fave has outposts in NYC, London, Miami, Las Vegas and The Hamptons. We love their signature pasta dish and San Remo drink.

Stoneacre Brasserie: A neighborhood favorite with a daily changing menu featuring the richest and brightest seasonal ingredients and a wine list that is cultivated to highlight boutique French wine producers. We love this for Sunday Brunch or dinner.

The Lawn: This outdoor restaurant, ideal for lunch or dinner, is located at The Castle Hill Inn. Order a dark and stormy and sit back on the adirondack chairs while you take in the views of the East Bay. The delicious spinach orzo salad is a perfect complement to their famous surf and turf burger and lobster roll with onion string toppings. 

The Clarke Cooke House: In the heart of Bannister's Wharf, this famous 3 floor downtown staple serves up traditional 5 star New England fare.The third floor is jacket required, while the first floor after 9pm turns into an adult only cocktail space called The Boom Boom Room. 

The Mooring and Bowen 22: These sister restaurants serve up the best seafood in town and are located on the marina promising great people watching and the opportunity to make friends with someone who has a killer yacht.

The Cliff Walk Terrace: Located at The Chanler, it is the perfect grown up spot for a sophisticated lunch after a stroll on the cliff walk. Be prepared to take in crazy views and celebrity sightings.  Manners required.

DO

Cliff Walk: This 3.5 mile, sometimes rugged recreational trail boosts the best views of Newport. 

Gilded Age Mansion Tours: The Breakers provides a guided tour, while other mansions are visited at your own pace.

Kayak & Paddelboard: Ed Sanchas is the genius behind Newport's first kayak and paddle board delivery business. They take all the hassle out of renting water-sports equipment and bring the kayaks and paddle boards right to you. Call Ed and his team and they will help you decide which spot is best and will meet you and get you set up. 423 - Kayak4U

Newport Polo Club: There are matches every Saturday in the summer and the tailgate is an important part of the scene so come prepared with a blanket and a picnic basket of champagne, wine and cheese.

Newport Sailing School: We recommend taking a 90 minute daytime or sunset private tour of Newport to see all of it’s glory from the open waters.

Ryan’s Amusements: Downtown arcade aka kids paradise, parents hell.

St. Mary’s Church: Religious or not, this historic church on William Street has some pretty cool bragging rights since it hosted the wedding of President Kennedy and Jacqueline Bouvier. 

Surf: Rhody Surf specializes in teaching surfers the basics of surfing in a fun, yet educational private or group surf lesson.  The popular program is Newport’s only Surf Camp and is conveniently located on the popular Easton’s Beach (aka First Beach), less than a mile from Downtown Newport.

The International Tennis Hall of Fame: Home to exhibitions of historic memorabilia as well as several beautifully maintained tennis courts. We recommend booking a time slot in advance should you want to play on these famous courts.

WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

GETTING HERE: 1.5 hours south of Boston and 3.5 hours north of NYC by car.

BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT: June-September

IDEAL TRAVELER: Families, couples, groups of friends or ladies weekend.

P.S. The hotels in Newport do not have direct access to the beach so you will need to have your own umbrella and beach chairs for your days on the water. We prefer Second Beach and recommend packing a cooler as the options on the beach leave little to be desired. Do not miss Shore Soap Co., a handcrafted bath and body brand, established in 2013 in Newport, Rhode Island.

Contact info@mapps.com to start planning.